1996 FORD MUSTANG GT BUMPER ENERGY ABSORBER REPLACEMENT

 SO YOU CRASHED YOUR 1996 MUSTANG

Location of the EAs behind bumper bar

Replacing the bumper and energy absorbers in a 96 mustang is not as bad as you might think.  So your daughter rear ended a pickup truck and now the front of the mustang is screwed.  No problem!  There are lots of parts available and if you have patience and the Zen attitude, you mustang will be on the road soon.  But first you need to make sure the front bumper stays on and correctly oriented.  To do this the energy absorbers will have to be replaced and new ones welded in.  Its not that hard and and can be done at home.

Insertion of new EA

Hole of old EA and corresponding welds

 

The EA's are spot welded to the frame of the car so you will have to drill them out.  Be careful, because there are a couple of hidden welds on the side of the EA where it fits into the frame hole.  The rest are outside and clearly visible. A nice chisel helps to break them once they have been weakened  by the drill.  Take your time, its a process.  If you find that the hidden welds are too hard to drill out (because they are on the sides of the frame, then take a huge hammer and hit the EA up and down until the weld breaks.  It will come off eventually and then you are home free!  The key here is taking time to remove the welds and then tacking a new weld on to hold the EA. 

Here you can see the new EA tack welded in and then primed to prevent rust.

HELPFUL WEBSITES FOR MECHANICS (as if)

THE INFO WAR

Finding information online that isnt compromised or full of trojan horses is no easy task.  While you can obviously torrent a lot of manuals or information, its much quicker to just load a web page and look it  up. Here are a few websites I use for working on vehicles that have been helpful:

http://www.dashboard-light.com/

This website is not a repair website, but rather a list of cars and their reliability from a database of research done on particular models.  It is very useful when trying to decide what car to buy or tell someone which car is more reliable.  Often people will ask me what to buy since I work on them all the time.  (Don't tell anyone but my answer is usually Toyota)

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/

This website has been very helpful when it comes to diagnosis and I don't have the info on hand.  Doesn't matter who you are, there is nothing like a good diagnosis to save time and money.  It includes particular models and cars but is most useful for American made vehicles.  

https://repairpal.com/

Here is a place you can go to find out local prices for repairs. I have found it useful for charging a fair price if I'm not charging an hourly rate.  I also refer customers to this website when they have questions about what a repair will charge or where to go for a repair.  

http://www.mellens.net/mazda/index.html

If you own a mazda miata or are working on one this is a great resource for miatas.  I used it in my miata rebuild and I'm sure others have too.  

Need a manual? Look no further

Free Online Car Repair Manuals

It's always hard to find revelant information when repairing vehicles.  This website is slow but it does have the info if you have patience.  I've used it many times.  Enjoy!!

Free Online Workshop Repair Manuals

2004 HONDA CRV PULLING TO THE RIGHT/STRUT PROBLEM (other hondas too)

HELP MY CRV IS NUTS!!

If you hate it when your Honda pulls to the right even though its has perfect alignment, never fear!! The answer is here!!

The top of the strut has a mounting cushion that the coil spring fits into.  This cushion gets twisted or misaligned and the spring sits on a different spot causing a camber change in the tire.  As a result, the car pulls to the right.

With the strut off, change the orientation of the rubber cushion to the spring.  You will have to compress the spring with a tool, then loosen the top to move the cushion, or just remove it entirely.  Its hard to believe that Honda didnt issue a recall on this problem but that business for you. They dont get rich handing out money. 

MAZDA 3 FUEL TANK LOCK RING

THE GREAT MAZDA SCREW UP

If your Mazda 3 generates a check engine code that says something to the effect of "Large EVAP leak detected" then this will probably apply to you. If your Mazda 3 starts leaking tons of gasoline when you fill up the tank, this definitely applies to you.

The fuel tank lock ring, or the plastic ring the has threads on it to secure the fuel pump has probably failed in a major way.  The plastic ring literally splits down the middle and suddenly there is a huge hole in the top of the gas tank.  The evap code will point to this but it would be very hard to detect without pulling the fuel tank out, so most people ignore it.  Eventually the plastic ring splits wide enough to let gasoline spill out and you are forced to deal with it.  

There is no way to remove and replace this ring without pulling the fuel tank out.  Although there is a small access port underneath the back seat, it is used for disconnecting the wiring to the fuel pump, not replacing the ring.  There is simply no space to put a tool in there and the ring is on hella tight.

Aside from disconnecting a few annoying evap hoses, the fuel tank is relatively easy to remove as long a you can get your fingers in the tight spaces to use a fuel disconnect tool to unhook the fuel and evap lines.  The ones on the rear near the evap canister are the worst and be prepared to use a lot of zen concentration and beer.  The real challenge is getting the old ring off without destroying the fuel pump.  Its all plastic so for craps sake go easy.  The torque on the ring is between 59-89 ft. lbs for some reason but I would be careful not to tighten it too tight.  You might need a tool like this one by Lisle .  It worked pretty good for me but then I was always lucky.  Good luck and send Mazda a flaming bag of poop for using such a crappy design.  

P.S. the new plastic ring from Mazda dealer is $75.  More flaming dog poop required for that debacle too.

2002 Honda Civic Timing Belt Tensioner Bolt Craziness: CHANGE IT !!!!!!!!!!!!😱😱😱😱😱

4MM OF DEATH

If you are in the unfortunate process of changing a timing belt for a 2002 Honda Civic, then here is a little friendly advice: Change The Tensioner Bolt.😱

For reasons only know the the five smartest people in the Honda Corporation, the tensioner bolt is 4mm too short and will strip the last few threads out of the block causing the timing belt to loosen and destroy the valves in the cylinder head.  There is a new bolt you can order from Honda and it is 4mm longer than the old one.

Its not that I am paranoid, its just that I have had to change out valves on a honda civic engine once apon a  time and I'm not going back there.  Not sure if you have the upgraded bolt or not on your Honda?  Here is a sure way to figure it out.  Take the new tensioner you bought with the new timing belt for your Civic, and put the bolt through it.  Next, take a ruler or vernier caliper and measure the bolt protrusion.  It should be 15mm of thread.  If it is not (and mine was not) then you have the old bolt.  It turns out that 4mm is enough to doom your Honda engine to certain death.  Spank you Honda, spank you very much.

Remember:  15mm of thread protrusion past the tensioner.

2001 Chevrolet Impala 3.8 Turn signal not working

Impala blinker Craziness

If your 2001 and similar model Impala's turn signals are not working or working erratically then this is probably the fix for you.  Its the hazard module located in the dash. This is what it looks like.

When this device fails, the turn signals will not flash properly and might make you think that the whole turn signal stalk is faulty.  Try tapping on this triangle button when the turn signals dont work.  If they start flashing then this switch is at fault.  Cheers!!